Island hopping - Food and Travel
Escape the crowds on some of Europe's most glorious yet least visited islands. They may be small in stature, but have massive dinner party cachet. I've mixed quirky insights into the local culture with plenty of practical tips for how to get the most out of them as a reader. Read the full story here or get a sense of it from the excerpts below.
The velvety blackness of lemon groves is punctuated by the glittering lights of buildings in the distance. By day, the town is a creamcoloured maze of pedestrian lanes that occasionally open up into squares where couples sip Aperol spritzes and smoke cigarettes.
Kastellerizo's lonely location and lack of sandy beaches deter the bucket-and-spade brigade and the couple of tavernas on the waterfront are instead populated by romantics, those with a family connection and bourgeois bohemians (David Gilmour of Pink Floyd wrote the weird, ethereal melody Castellorizon after succumbing to the island’s spell).
Life potters along at a deliciously slow pace. Sit under the huge eucalyptus tree in Plateia Loza and you’ll see local men gathering at the kafenion (café) to sip ouzo and play backgammon, while local restaurateurs hang octopus out to dry.
Take a dip in the emerald water caressing one of Vis’s coves, perhaps Stiniva, Zaglav or Molo Trovna, and you could well be swimming above dark torpedoes of plump tuna. Things have remained pristine on shore as well, with orchards of 1,000-year-old carob trees, rare orchids and more than 300 herbs and plants that are dying out elsewhere in the Med.