Andrew Edmunds restaurant review - Food and Travel
An in depth review of one of Soho's most iconic restaurants. I was keen to capture its timeless atmosphere, because some restaurants are about more than just food. Read the full story here or get a sense of it from the excerpts below.
A plain black facade and Soho postcode may trigger warning bells but rest assured, this is not another restaurant jumping on the prohibition trend by claiming to be ‘secret’. After 30 years at the top of its game it has built up enough loyal regulars that advertising simply isn’t required. You’ll find elderly characters in long coats and once-famous artists who hark back to the area’s bohemian past, as well as a loyal clique of old-school media types looking to recreate the days of wine-soaked long lunches, back-handers and dictaphones.
Jolly flowers and candles in wine bottles are plonked on rickety tables and the seating is best described as cosy; go with someone you like, you’ll be sitting rather close.
Dishes are united by the common themes of tradition and flavour rather than any one style. The menu, handwritten every day, is short, to the point and modestly priced. To start, celeriac soup is a bowl of salty, creamy goodness that costs just £4.50. When in season, game is always a good order here. Quail is imaginatively served with a lick of garlicky aïoli.