Orrery restaurant review - Food and Travel
A review of Marylebone stalwart Orrery in its 20th year. I aimed to build up a sense of place with detailed descriptions of the room as well as the food and by including some characterisation of the waiter. Read the full story here or get a sense of it from the excerpts below.
Now the focus is on modern French techniques with British ingredients, while the presentation has the air of modernist paintings. Dorset sea bass luxuriates in a herb crust the colour of cut grass alongside vivid circles of star anise sauce studded with micro herbs.
When it comes to desserts, chef Tymchyshyn is astute enough to keep things fairly traditional. As a spoonful of smooth vanilla crème brûlée dissolves on our tongue we find ourselves thinking ‘If it ain’t broke...’
When the trolley arrives it is heaving with French farmhouse offerings. ‘Never fewer than 25,’ its keeper assures us with a flourish of his knives, before asking for our favourite flavours and recommending a selection. It’s a wonderful bit of theatre that feels both nostalgic and timely; proof if that if you keep doing something well for long enough it will inevitably become fashionable again.