An interview with Chef Nigel Haworth, who has held a Michelin star at Northcote for more than 20 years. Read the full story here or get a sense of it from the excerpts below.
Nigel Haworth is into carving. Not joints of meat on a butcher’s block as his dinner-plate-size hands suggest, rather intricate figurines. ‘Have you heard of Capodimontes? I used to carve them out of butter.’ His broad Lancashire accent reverberates through Mayfair. ‘Oh yes. Greek goddesses, old men trout-fishing. That sort of thing. I’d spend whole nights in the fridge perfecting them.’
Haworth’s childhood food memories are typical of mid-century Britain. ‘The biggest excitement was going to the local market to buy black pudding, tripe and dandelion and burdock. My mum used to treat all four of us kids to a bag of broken biscuits, which always wowed us. I’ve got it in mind to create something with broken biscuits. I can see it in a cookbook now – broken biscuit pudding.’ This sums up Haworth’s cooking. His food always consists of local seasonal ingredients crafted with regional techniques and laced with nostalgia
'"Regional dishes are the bedrock of British food. There’s a time and a place for fine dining, but sometimes you just want to eat beautiful ingredients, freshly cooked." He’s stuck by this motto throughout his career, immune to the rise and fall of Franglais fusion, convenience food in the Eighties and more recently molecular gastronomy. Now, it seems, the rest of the world has finally caught up with him.'